City Libraries, City of Gold Coast

Benjamin on fashion, Philipp Ekardt

eng

no index present

non fiction

Benjamin on fashion

dictionaries

Philipp Ekardt

Walter Benjamin Studies

Fashion-Forward Benjamin: A Brief Introduction -- Fashion-forward Benjamin -- A qualifying remark: The limits of this study and the positivity of fashion -- Textual basis -- Part One -- Time/Fashion Models -- 1 On Some Systematic Aspects of Benjamin's Fashion Theory -- Has fashion ever been modern? -- Fashion as model and as chronotechnics -- Benjamin's fashion passage -- From phenomena in time to models of time -- Fashion changes little -- Being in fashion, being form (Simmel) -- Differentials of time and deviations of direction -- Any past's contemporary: Fashion as a temporal qualifier (the sentimental education of the discontinuous) -- Yesterday, and the day before (sorting time and what has gone out of style) -- Zeitkern (time kernel) -- The ends of Benjamin's time/fashion model I: Revolution -- The ends of Benjamin's time/fashion model II: Historical apocatastasis -- Part Two -- Benjamin and the Fashion of his Time -- 2 The Contingent Primacy of Sex(es) -- A sudden affluence: The view of garments gliding by -- Waists are up, skirts are down (1929/1930) -- An onscreen vignette: L'Herbier, Helm, Louiseboulanger -- Should Benjamin have attended fashion shows? Helen Grund, the expert -- The only contemporaneous fashion thinker -- The contingent primacy of sex -- (Schiaparelli's) Genital millinery -- Fashion, whores, Surrealists (The pitfalls of allegory and the forgetting of labor) -- Beyond the logic of the placeholder. Schiaparelli's (and Dora Benjamin's) fashion work -- Morphology of the silhouette (Benjamin vs. Focillon) -- 3 In/Elegant Materialisms -- Grund's additional notes on the essence of fashion (an unpublished fragment from the Walter Benjamin-Archiv) -- A theory of elegance: The animation of garments according to Helen Grund -- Theory of modeling -- The immanence of elegance -- Taking it to the industryThing and dress (Schiaparelli, Apollinaire) -- The extraneous temporality of the fashion phenomenon -- The supple and the rigid: Two tendencies in 1930s Paris Couture -- Vionnet and the Pavillon de l'Élégance -- Versions of inertia: Persistence of the fashion form -- The non-givenness of material -- Materialism A la mode -- 4 The Tiger's Leap and the Expression of History -- The charm of the previous century: A Manet show, a Belle Epoque collection, and filmic dreams of fashions past -- Striking a note in fashion history -- Morphology in history: Time as ground -- The tiger's leap as expression of the economy (Benjamin's fashion ideology)